Erin Coyle
When one hears of Qalhat, it’s hard not to imagine the bustling city it once was during ancient times. It’s hard not to imagine the lives of the people that used to live in this powerful city-state, or even the constant flow of sea vessels coming and going in its port trading different goods profitable at that time.
Today, others only associate Qalhat with Bibi Maryam’s tomb — the only ruin left standing after the city was eventually abandoned.
While it is worth stopping by to take a look at the tomb, there’s actually more to Qalhat than the melancholic structure many people has now come to know after it successfully became a Unesco heritage site. Outside of the dig site surrounding the tomb, there are two areas one can hike around, there’s also some blocs of what appears to be remains of a village or city or even shops and a bit further down, a small wadi and a charming village.
The first area to wander around is near the big bridge. The rough road towards the bridge may be tough for your car especially if it’s not a four-wheel drive so it is ideal to find a good parking spot under the bridge. The beginning of the gravel path is flat, and while you are walking, the uniquely layered rocks and boulders including its interesting crevasses will definitely take your attention.
After about fifteen minutes, the trail becomes even rougher as the stones become bigger and more boulders appear. The way will continue to be like this for another hour until the pathway curves to the right and a small pool of water reveals itself. This is the best spot to take a break.
It is possible to climb up a few boulders and keep walking around from here. This route starts to get semi-challenging because upper body strength is required to pull yourself up on the rocks. If you follow the small pools, the layered slate and coloured rocks continue to become more interesting. The rest of the way will be like this — rocks upon rocks and boulders and upon boulders that reveal more challenges. It is up to you how long you wish to continue this path. The other option is to go straight instead of turning right. Here you will find three to four pools of water and eventually reach a village or two. The trail is not marked, so keep following the pools. You may pass someone living there and can ask them for directions.
Another area good for exploring near Qalhat begins near the beach. Follow the road toward the beach, and eventually, there will be some fishing boats lined up. Walk past these boats and start to walk on the coast heading to the right. As you go, some ruins level to the ground will appear. The area could have been another city, a village, or even some shops in ancient times. Stone columns, a small mosque, maybe even majlis’ could have been part of these remains. It can be an excellent way to walk around here to discover and think about what precisely this area once was.
While walking around, you may see some broken pieces of pottery scattered on the ground. As you walk, look toward the right, and Bibi Maryam’s tomb will be in the background. Start walking towards this area, and after a few minutes, you will reach the end of the path. After passing the tomb, head towards the left, and there will be a small path to walk down. Keep walking through the dry wadi and make your way back to the beach.
While the hiking trails around this area is not as scenic as some hiking paths scattered all over the country, they have their own personalities and offer an amazing insight into the history of the place.
While walking in this area, please respect the history and heritage. It is okay to take pictures of the pottery, but do not take them with you. Do not leave any trash behind. Both areas for walking are not marked, so be careful when coming to these trails. Qalhat is perfect for exploring, taking pictures of incredible rock formations, or figuring out history. The best time to visit is in the early morning or late afternoon.
